ABSTRACT
Shampoos are products which remove surface grease and dirt from the hair shaft and scalp. The cleansing or detergent action of a shampoo is a primary function. However, foaming characteristic of a shampoo has an important role in its acceptability. Often alkanolamides have been used for accessed stable foam; but because of producing nitrosamines, they are potentially carcinogenic compounds. So, the main goal of this research was elimination of these materials from shampoo formula. A. squarrosum is one of the 23 species of the genus Acanthophyllum endemic in Iran. Due to the presence of saponin in its root, chubak, has been used traditionally as a detergent. In this study, total saponin of Acanthophyllum squarrosum roots was extracted using several solvents. A clear liquid shampoo base was formulated using Texapon as surfactant, sodium chloride as thickener, glycerin as hair conditioner, methyl paraben as preservative and EDTA as sequestering agent. Then, a definite amount of Texapon was substituted by 1, 2.5 and 5 percent of total herbal saponin. The evaluation of foaming ability by Ross-Miles method and cleansing power by Thompson test showed the best result with the formula containing 20% Texapon and 5% total herbal saponin. So it was selected as the best formula and evaluated for other characteristics. In addition to possessing the properties of a liquid shampoo, the unique characteristics of the formula containing 5% total herbal saponin produced stable foam without using foam stabilizers. Evaluation of cleansing power by Thompson test, determined that final formula is a shampoo for normal hair with very good cleansing ability. Rheological studies showed that final formula had pseudoplastic behaviour, Organoleptic and physicochemical characteristics of final formula were in the acceptable range